Photography tips and tricks

Beginner ISO facts

ISO or International Organization for Standardization consists of a network of the national standards institutes of 147 countries on the basis of one member per country. ISO is a non-governmental organization that sets technical standards for industrial, government, and manufacturing organizations.

The ISO rating of your film is tested as to the sensitivity of light and how fast an image can be properly exposed onto the film. ISO ratings with modern films start at 100 and go as high as 3200. The important thing to remember is the lower the number, the slower the film and the more light that is needed to properly expose the film. As the ISO number doubles, the sensitivity of the film doubles as well. Below is a table that will show how film is exposed and why using a higher ISO film in low light is better.

As you will see each step up in film speed allows you to increase your shutter speed by a factor of two. Or close down your aperture by 1-stop. Choosing the right ISO for your pictures depends on what you plan to shoot. For general photography, ISO 200 will produce very good results with very little grain in your enlargements. For low light situations or if you are using your flash in a dark area, a higher speed film will increase the range of your flash a few extra feet.

How do I E-mail a photo?

A digital picture is known as a file on your computer. The computer looks at all data weather it is a document or a picture as a file. Files are stored in folders in order to maintain an organized string of data.

First you have to know where the file is on your computer in order to attach it to your email. There are at least three places the file could be stored; on the hard drive usually designated drive C: The CD drive is usually designated drive D: or the floppy drive usually designated drive A:

The size of the file is important. Sending a large file to someone that uses a dial up connection will create a long download time on his or her end. Size your photos to no larger than 400 pixels across. This will give the recipient a nice size to view and prevent the file size from being to large to send.

If the picture is going to be used for reproduction, send as large a file as you can, the more pixels the better. Check with the recipient as to the maximum size they can receive.

Most free email accounts limit the size of the file to around 300 kilobytes.

To attach a file to an email:

1. Write your email as you normally would.

2. Click the attach icon on your screen. [Picture file: 401001Attach.jpg]

3. A window will appear with the title of: Insert Attachment. This will usually default to the ‘my pictures’ folder. [Picture file: 401002Attach.jpg]

4. Drop down the ‘look in’ dialog box to locate the drive the file is located. Click on the drive to find the folder where the file is located. Click the file and then click the Attach button to complete the process. 5. In Outlook express and most other email programs a new line will appear just under the subject line of the email, titled, ‘Attachments’. The file you attached is listed in that box. [Picture file: 401003Attach.jpg]

6. To attach multiple files, use the shift key with your mouse to attach a string of files. Use the Ctrl key with your mouse to select multiple files that are not in a string.

7.Check your spelling and double check the file name to make sure you attached the correct ones.

8. Click send.

Confirm again the correct files by looking in your ‘sent folder’. This will give you the same view of the email that your recipient receives.

Photographing Fireworks

The easy way to photograph fireworks

This is a fun colorful subject that everyone tries to photograph at least once and then is usually disappointed when the pictures are viewed. Follow these steps for great fireworks pictures.

What you need:

• A camera that can expose for at least 30 seconds
• A tripod
• 200 ISO film (or use your digital camera)

What to do:

• Set your camera on the tripod.
• Set your exposure time to 15 seconds.
• Set your aperture to f-8.
• When the first burst explodes be ready and only check your focus.
• Track the rocket as it goes up and set your camera to the proper angle to capture the explosion.
• Now you are ready to shoot!
• As soon as you see the explosion gently press the shutter and let time and light do the rest. Take several shots at this setting.
• Now set your camera for 30 seconds, and repeat the process.
• If you are using a digital camera quickly review your pictures to see if the exposure is set right. If they are too bright, shorten your exposure time by ½. If they are too dark, slow your shutter speed by a factor of two.
• Practice! The more you shoot, the more likely you will get the shot you are after!
• Have Fun!

Photographing People

Taking better photographs of People.

People are the most photographed subjects in our society and they can be the most interesting as well. A good people photograph tells the viewer something about that person by the way emotion and character connects with the viewer. Here are six simple tips to make your people pictures more effective.

1. Fill the frame with the person’s face. If you need a full body shot of the person, turn your camera vertical in order to make the subject as large as possible in the photo.

2. Take several pictures at different angles, and with different lighting. If the sun is bright, use a fill flash to fill in the shadows in the eye sockets and to kill the shadows from the hair, glasses, nose or ears.

3. Put your subject in a bright area while finding a darker more simple background. This will help have the subject “pop out” in the photo by providing contrast.

4. Use telephoto lenses when shooting portraits. Wide-angle lenses tend to distort the shape of your subject’s face. The further you stand away from your subject, the more comfortable your subject will be.

5. Set up your equipment before you start shooting. Make sure that you are ready to go before hand. You will have a better opportunity of catching a more natural expression.

6. Relax everyone you photograph before you start shooting, and keep him or her engaged while you are shooting. When they are paying attention to what you are doing, you will get better results.

Be sensitive to those that you photograph. If you sense tension or uneasiness, try relaxing them by telling a joke or by complimenting their appearance.

Rainbow Photography

A rainbow is sunlight spread out into its spectrum of colors and diverted to the eye of the observer by the water droplets in rain. Any source of bright light being refracted by water droplets will create a rainbow as well. Light is projected from behind the observer and hits the water droplet. The light is bent and dispersed, then reflected off the back of the water droplet, and refracted again when the light exits the droplet. The difference in angles accounts for the spectrum of colors you see.

Being at the right place at the right time has everything to do with good rainbow photography. Rainbows appear best when rain is falling from the sky and direct sunlight is projected onto the raindrops as they are still falling.

Have your camera ready and be in a place where the foreground is uncluttered and no power wires are visible. Usually the auto mode of the camera will be able to produce the exposure you need for a great rainbow photograph.

Travel Photography

Before you go: Practice with your camera. Take the extra time to be sure you know how to use all the modes, attach all the accessories, and` load the film or digital media. Shoot pictures in the same lighting, and time of day that you anticipate will be like your vacation photo sessions. If you use a film camera, make sure to have your test roll developed and ask the lab about the appearance of the negatives and if problems were apparent with your film. With a digital camera, have a few shots printed at the lab. This will help you understand how the aspect ratio of your camera should be compensated for when printing to a standard sized print.

The law and photography: Before you travel abroad, ask your travel agent for information about what you can, and what you can not photograph while at your vacation destination. Laws vary from country to country. In some countries any photography without consent is considered a crime. When going to museums or art shows, ask if photography is allowed. When photographing people, always use the common sense approach of “would a reasonable person think I was intruding on privacy”? When in doubt, always ask for permission.

Tell a story with your pictures: As you look over your itinerary, anticipate how you will record your trip. Start at home with everyone packing or waiting at the airport with the destination sign in the background. Take fun photographs of your travel companions between the big stops eating, playing, or just relaxing.

Take an extra camera: Pack a camera that is easy to carry and takes good pictures. You will be able to enjoy your trip and still capture those great moments. A small digital camera with at least three megapixels will provide good snap shots and are easy to carry.

Use your flash: Make sure you understand how to set your flash modes. Use a fill flash while photographing people outdoors. The flash will fill in the shadows and compliment the quality of your people pictures.

Don’t use your flash: The flash of most cameras is eight to twelve feet. When shooting any further the flash is ineffective. Often at large sporting events held at night, you will notice flashes firing in the stands. The only thing these photographers are accomplishing is exposing heads that are directly in front of them. The chance of a good photograph is very poor.

Remember you! Don’t miss yourself in the pictures! Make sure your companions take photographs of you! Ask someone to take pictures of your whole group. Those are the pictures that every one in your group will want when you share your pictures.

Ten Great tips to great pictures

Use the sun to your advantage: Put the sun behind you when you can. When photographing people out doors watch you subjects. People will squint in bright sunlight and distort their faces. Baseball caps will cause harsh shadows, and when the sun is high, eye sockets will be shadowed and look deep. Use your fill flash outdoors to fill in shadows. When possible have people stand in a shaded area to relax their faces and use your flash to even out the exposure.

Think horizontal or vertical: Remember to turn your camera when shooting tall objects. This allows you to fill the frame more with the subject and eliminate unwanted background clutter.

Keep the background simple: When photographing people, look at the background and foreground for things that will clutter the photo. Watch for plants or other objects that look as if they are growing out of your subject’s heads. When using flash indoors, watch for things that will cause shadows. A chandelier hanging low will cause shadows on the subject or the background. Glare can be avoided by shooting glass-covered pictures at an angle. Watch for glass doors or windows that are in a straight path to the flash; these will cause glare.

Fill the frame with the subject: When photographing people, get close, fill the frame and use your flash outdoors to fill in shadows and put highlights in their eyes. When photographing objects, fill the frame as much as possible to eliminate background. More detail can be achieved when this technique is used.

Hold the camera steady: Shaking while taking the photo will cause the picture to be blurry. Deliberately hold the camera still before, and during the picture taking process. It is best to relax and hold the camera in a natural way. Be careful not to cover the flash with your finger while firing the shutter. Be aware that the camera strap hanging in front of the lens, or flash. The strap will show up as a shadow or obstruction in your picture.

Understand the limitations of your equipment: Most point and shoot cameras are unable to focus closer than three to four feet. Getting closer than the focus limitation of the camera will produce blurry unacceptable pictures. Most flash units on point and shoot cameras are limited to about eight to twelve feet when using 400 ISO film. Using a flash at a sporting event will not produce the results you want. Use 800 ISO film, turn off your flash and hope for the best.

Keep your eye on the horizon and other lines of reference: When looking through your viewfinder, keep all visual lines straight. If the horizon in your picture is out of balance, your subjects will look like they are leaning to one side. This makes it more difficult to enlarge because in order to straighten the photo a portion of it will be cropped off to correct for the crooked lines. With vertical pictures, watch for vertical lines that correspond with the subject. Keep these lines parallel with the edge of the frame.

The rule of thirds: This is a popular rule that photographers and artists use to strategically place points of interest. Divide your viewfinder into thirds horizontally and vertically. This creates a grid of nine boxes. Try placing important elements of your photo where these lines intersect. Please remember, that while this is a rule that can and should be broken. Using this rule will help you become more creative with your photography and improve your composition.

Try new angles with the same subject: When photographing a subject, walk around, shoot different angles, change your lighting, turn your flash on, then turn it off. By moving around and firing off several shots, you will be amazed how your pictures will improve.

Show off your best pictures: When sharing pictures with friends and family, show them only your best. Eliminate the photos that don’t show your best work.

Glossary 

Additive Color: The result of mixing the primary colors, (red, green and blue). Creating a visible spectrum of colors.

Aperture: The opening formed by an iris diaphragm in the lens that controls the amount of light allowed to expose film or digital sensor.

Aspect Ratio: The ratio between the width and height of an image, film or image sensor.

Attachment: A digital file that can be attached to an email and opened or saved on the recipient’s end.

Automatic Exposure: The mode of operation in a camera that automatically adjusts, shutter speed, aperture, or both, for proper exposure.

Automatic Flash: The normal default mode for most point and shoot cameras. This mode allows the camera to judge when the light is low enough to use the flash.

Backlit: The subject of the photograph is lit from behind causing the subject to be underexposed. Use fill flash to compensate.

Banding: A visible streak through a photograph created by dirt or a malfunction of the printing device.

Bandwidth: The capacity of a network to transfer data. Associated with the ability to send files over the internet. The wider the bandwidth, the faster the transfer rate.

Bit: A binary digit. The smallest piece of binary information used by a computer.

Byte: A byte equals 8 bits

Camera-ready artwork: Flat or digital art that has been completely prepared for prepress or printing.

CCD: Charge-coupled device. A common image sensor found in digital cameras.

CMOS Chip: An image sensor found in digital cameras. This technology uses less power than CCD. It also has a lower manufacturing cost

CMYK: Cyan, magenta, yellow and black. A color mode used to assign inks to printing.

Color Balance: The standard of creating a print that matches the color of the original scene. Controlled by the type of film used, the type of filter used on the camera, the programming of the printer, and the correct chemical balancing of the processors.

Color Depth: The number of bits assigned to each pixel in the image and the number of colors that can be created from those bits. True color uses 24 bits per pixel to render 16 million colors.

Color Gamut: The range of colors available in an output device or image.

Color Space: The number of colors that can be produced based on the ability of the out put device and the media that is used.

Compact Flash: A form of flash memory storage used in digital cameras.

Compression, loss less: A file compression type that reduces size of the file without degrading the image.

Compression, lossy: A file compression type that reduces the size of the file, but, in the process, degrades the image. The image data cannot be restored to its original quality.

Contrast: The range between the darkest and brightest points of an image.

Decompression: Fully restoring a digital file to its original data content.

Dedicated Flash: A flash that is specifically designed to operate with a specific camera. When using a dedicated flash, the camera communicates with the flash to allow the user to use automatic exposure modes. (See TTL)

Depth of field: The distance from the furthest to the closest points in a photograph that are in focus. Depth of field is controlled by the size of the aperture being used. By adjusting shutter speed to compensate for a narrow aperture, depth of field can be increased. A larger opening in the lens will decrease depth of field.

Digital Color Printing: Any number of printing devices that use digital data to create a hard copy. Ink jet, LED, laser, CRT are all methods used in photographic quality printing.

Docking Station: An accessory for digital cameras that connects to your computer to transfer images.

Dots per inch (DPI): A measurement of printer resolution that counts the number of dots placed by the printer in one inch. Measurements can be calculated horizontally or vertically.

Downloading: To transfer data from a large computer to a smaller computer or device.

Driver: A software program that communicates with the computer to allow a device to work properly.

Dye Sublimation: A color printing technology that uses thermal heads along with a transfer material to create an image on a receiver paper.

Exposure/Focus lock: The act of holding down the shutter button half way to lock onto a focus and exposure, and recomposing with out allowing the camera to change its settings to the new scene.

Exposure: The amount of light that reaches the film or digital sensor, controlled by the sensitivity of the film or sensor, and the aperture and shutter speed.

Fill Flash: Intentionally turning your flash on in order to fill shadows on a bright sunny day, or to override backlighting conditions when shooting indoors when the camera is unable to do so in automatic mode.

Firewire: One of the fastest peripheral standards ever developed. Transfer rates of up to 800 mega bits per second.

Firewall: A security system that protects the computer from outside access.

Firmware: Software stored in the computers read only memory (ROM) and cannot be changed. Usually associated with the boot up process.

Flash card reader: A device that reads flash memory and transfers it to a computer.

Flash, Slave: A flash that fires when it senses a flash from another unit.

Flash: Used to emit a short burst of bright light to eliminate the need of slowing shutter speed to a point of creating a blurry picture. A flash uses xenon gas in a tube and is powered through a capacitor by a battery.

FlashPix: A file format created by Kodak that contains a number of resolutions that can be viewed independently.

Focal Length: The distance from optical center of a lens to the surface of the exposure plane. This is usually measured in millimeters. The longer the focal length is the more narrow the angle of view, the more objects are magnified. Normal focal length lens provides about the same angle of view, as the photographer would see it.

Focus: The process of making the image sharp on film or sensor. Most cameras have auto focus or fixed focus. Manual focus cameras are adjusted through the lens or by using a guide on the camera.

F-Stop: A measurement used as a benchmark to correctly expose film, rate a lens as to how “fast” it is and is controlled by an iris in the lens to make the opening larger or smaller.

FTP (File Transfer Protocol): Used to efficiently transfer files over a TCP/IP network.

GIF: An image format file that is used on the web for animations.

Gigabyte: A unit of memory in a computer that is equal to 1,024 megabytes.

Global color correction: A color correction to a print that affects the entire image equally.

Gray Market Merchandise: Merchandise that is imported out side normal manufacture’s distribution channels, at a low cost, due to rate of exchange. Then sold in the United States as discounted merchandise. Common gray market items are film and cameras.

Gray Scale: A series of 256 tones raging from pure white to pure black.

Guide Number: A rating of a flashes power. Good to use when shopping for flash and comparing different models.

Histogram: A graphic representation of the brightness and color in a scene based upon the frequency of occurrence of each value.

Hot Shoe: A clip usually on the top of a camera used to mount an external flash. Most hot shoes will allow the flash to communicate with the camera to create the proper exposure.

HTML: Hyper text markup language.

HTTP: Hyper text transfer protocol.

Image Sensor: See CCD and CMOS chip.

Interpolation: The process of adding extra pixels to an image by using nearby pixels to estimate the color and brightness for the pixels in a larger image. Some digital cameras will interpolate pixels to increase the range of the zoom lens.

ISO: The rating of how sensitive film or sensor is to light. The higher the number is, the more sensitive the film.

Jpeg: The most common image file using lossy compression to reduce file size. Developed by the Joint Photographic Experts Group.

Kilobyte: Digital data equal to 1,024 bits.

LCD: Liquid crystal display. Used as viewing device on digital cameras.

LZW: A compression used to reduce the size of an image file. Usually associated with the .tiff format.

Macro Photography: Using a mode or a special lens that allows very close up photography without making the photograph blurry.

Matrix Metering: An exposure system included with some cameras that breaks the scene up into a grid, then evaluates each section of the grid to produce the best possible exposure.

Mega pixel: The measurement of one million pixels. A four mega pixel camera has four million pixels in each image.

Megabyte: Digital data equal to 1,048,576 bytes.

Memory stick: A flash memory chip developed by the Sony Corporation.

Metamerism: A phenomenon that occurs when two or more photographs visually match under certain lighting conditions, but not under all lighting conditions.

MPEG: A digital video format developed by the Motion Pictures Expert Group.

Multiple Exposure: A photograph made up of two or more images shot over each other.

Multisession: A CD-ROM format that allows information to be recorded incrementally in different sessions on the same CD.

Overexposure: When the film or sensor is exposed with too much light. By either having the aperture to large, the shutter speed to slow, or a combination of both.

Panoramic mode: A mode that allows the photographer take wide-angle photographs. As wide as 360° with a digital camera.

Parallax: An effect produced with a viewfinder camera shooting close up. The scene through the viewfinder is offset by the scene through the lens due to the distance between the two.

Pixel: The element of a digital image where color values and brightness have been recorded.

Pixelization: A visual effect seen when a digital image is enlarged beyond its capabilities, and pixels become evident.

Point and Shoot Camera: A compact automatic camera that will usually have the flash built in.

PPI: Pixels per inch. A measurement of the number of pixels in width and height for each inch of the photograph.

Prepress: The work done to a digital job before printing, laying out the text, graphics and sizing.

Preview Screen: A small LCD screen on the back of a digital camera that allows the user to compose, and view digital photographs.

Range Finder: A camera with has a viewfinder separate from the lens.

Raw Format: The uninterpolated data collected by the image sensor before transforming it to a .jpg or. tiff.

Recycle time: The amount of time a digital camera takes to process and store a digital image to flash memory.

Red Eye Reduction Mode: A mode on most modern automatic cameras that attempt in different ways to constrict the iris of the subject’s eyes, in order to reduce the red eye recorded on the film or image sensor.

Red Eye: A problem that shows up when using a flash that is close to the lens. The light from the flash reflects off the blood in retina of the eye and records on the film as red eye. Common with light eyed people.

Removable Media: Flash memory that can be removed from a digital camera.

Resolution: Usually measured in PPI. Determines the maximum document size, depending on use, based on the number of pixels in width and height.

RGB: The primary colors of red, green and blue. The combinations of these colors create the visible spectrum used in digital photography.

Shutter Speed: The length of time the shutter stays open to allow light onto the film or image sensor.

Shutter: The device in a camera that opens and closes in a set amount of time to allow the film or image sensor to be exposed with light through the lens.

SLR: Single lens reflex camera. A camera with one lens that is used for viewing through and taking the picture.

Smart Media: A form of flash memory storage used in digital cameras.

Spot Metering: An auto exposure mode that sets the exposure based on a small circle in the center of the viewfinder.

TIFF (Tagged Image File Format): An image format designed for scanned images.

TTL Metering: A Dedicated flash that will set the exposure of the camera in an automatic mode. (See dedicated flash)

TWAIN: Technology Without An Interesting Name. A program that allows graphics software to capture images from a scanner in a readable format.

Underexposure: Not allowing enough light in to the film or image sensor to render an image that is as the eye sees it. Will produce dark or grainy photographs.

Upload: To send a file through a network to another computer or device.

URL: Uniform Resource Locator. Web site address.

Vector Image: Images created by mathematical shapes, lines, and groups of objects rather than pixels.

White Balance: Setting the white point on a digital camera based on the lighting conditions that photographs will be shot under.

Wide Angle lens: A short focal length lens that allows a wider angle of view than a standard lens.

ZIP: An efficient way to compress files that are sent over the internet.

Zoom Lens: A lens that allows the user to change the focal length of the lens within a preset range. Zoom lenses are available in a wide variety of ranges.

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